Do Female Rabbits Hump Each Other?

I'm a small-scale rabbit breeder, but still very new bunny-breeding. A few days ago, while I was tending my three mini-rex rabbits, I noticed my five-month-old doe, Eowyn, mounting or "humping" her sister Arwen. Although I knew that male rabbits "hump" one another to display dominance, I didn't know that females engaged in the same behavior. My first thought was that the original breeder and I had both mis-identified Eowyn's sex.

I carefully examined Eowyn's genitals and confirmed that she was female-- or, at least, I was fairly certain that she was. Still, to double-check, I called her original breeder and asked for advice. As it turns out, females frequently hump one another at the time that they reach puberty; it is their way of asserting dominance without any bloody battles.

If your female rabbit has begun humping another doe, it's likely that they're simply involved in a mild argument over territory or dominance. If it continues for more than a few days, you may need to separate them to prevent a serious fight. Most of the time, mounting or "humping" behavior in does is very temporary and will not last long.

There is, however, another possibility behind your female rabbit displaying "humping" behavior. Your rabbit's sex may have been mis-identified, especially if you got "her" at a young age or from a breeder who did not examine her carefully enough. If your rabbit is male, you need to know this as quickly as possible to prevent an unwanted litter of kits.

To accurately determine the sex of your rabbit, press gentle on each side of its vent area. If it is male, a pointy tube with a hole at the end will protrude. If it is female, a smaller wedge-shaped organ will protrude. Un-neutered males also usually have palpable testicles, which descend between 9 and 20 weeks of age. These appear as sagging bags on each side of his vent area. There's nothing pleasant about sexing a rabbit, it's necessary to make sure that your female rabbit is, in fact, a female.

Why are My Female Rabbits Fighting?

As a small-scale breeder of mini-rex rabbits, I was surprised the first time I saw two of my female rabbits fighting. Arwen and Eowyn are sisters and have been inseparable since birth. Although I knew that females could become aggressive toward one another, I never thought that those two would exhibit this behavior. Unfortunately, even female rabbits who are very well-bonded will fight occasionally.

There are several reasons that female rabbits may begin fighting. Here are a few.

1. They are establishing dominance. Like males, female rabbits need to have some form of social structure. By the time they are sexually mature, females will have a few little spats to determine which rabbit is the top-bunny. These fights are usually not serious and simply involve a few rounds of mounting ("humping") and kicking. Unless it seems that one is being injured, let them be. They will resolve the problem and go back to bonding within a few days.

2. They are competing for territory. In a house where they are allowed to roam freely, female rabbits will usually get along well. However, two female rabbits will fight endlessly if they are in one cage, especially if it is inadequately sized and has little room to roam. If your rabbits must stay caged for a significant portion of the day, either give them separate cages or one that is very large (at least ten feet long and three feet wide). Rabbits may also compete for specific objects; Arwen and Eowyn argue frequently over the larger of their two water-bottles.

3. They need more attention. If your rabbits are kept in a cramped cage most of the time and don't see you very often, they are likely to take out their general frustration on one another. Keep your rabbits in a clean, adequately sized house and give them plenty of love and attention. If your female rabbits are generally emotionally healthy, aggresive behavior is less likely.

4. The simply don't like each other. If your two rabbits were introduced as adults, and not kits, they may never bond. If your two rabbits simply can't stand one another, you can either introduce them to each other gradually, in supervised sessions, or must refrain from allowing them to be together. Otherwise, you may end up with one or two dead bunnies. Female rabbits do not generally fight as aggressively as males, but two females who don't get along may fight to the death.

Has My Rabbit Abandoned Her Kits?

When my rabbit Eowyn, a mini-rex, gave birth to her first litter of kits, she seemed nervous and unsure of herself. The day after she gave birth, I found one of the kits dead, bruised, and clearly underfed. I immediately seized the other three. Two died on the way to the vet's office; the other died in the veterinarian's hands. As the doctor sadly informed me, my rabbit had abandoned, and then killed, her entire litter. I was devastated-- but relieved when, the next go-around, Eowyn raised a healthy litter of seven kits.

It isn't uncommon for a rabbit to abandon or kill her kits, especially her first time around. But it is far more common for rabbit guardians to erroneously assume that the mothers have abandoned their young. Before you start attempting to rescue baby bunnies from an apparently neglectful mother, take these critical steps to ensure that your assessment is correct.

1. Look for signs of injury. If one or more of your baby bunnies shows bite-marks, scratches, bruises or other noticeable injuries, it's likely that the mother has intentionally or negligently hurt them. In this case, get all of the kits-- not just those who are visibly injured-- to a vet promptly before she kills all of her young. (Be sure to wrap them warmly in a towel; young kits are prone to hypothermia.) If you notice only minor scratches, carefully monitor the kits for additional signs of injury before taking them from their mother.

2. Observe the rabbit's nesting behavior. If your doe didn't build a nest at all, it's almost certainly a sign that she will abandon her kits-- if she hasn't already. Eowyn built an inadequate nest before her first litter, which she abandoned. Although she did pull out her fur and distribute it in the area where she gave birth, the nest wasn't deep enough, wide enough or covered enough to accommodate the kits. When kindling is inadequate-- or when a rabbit fails to kindle at all-- it is a sign that she doesn't know what she is doing. A rabbit who does not build a nest at all will almost always abandon or injure her young. A well-built, well-tended nest is a sign that she is interested in her kits and dedicated to their care.

3. Check for well-fed bellies. Rabbits only feed their kits once or twice per day, so it's likely that you'll rarely or never see your doe nursing her offspring. Rabbits do not lie with their kits the way that mother dogs and cats will lie with their young. Instead, they stand over the kits for just a few moments, allowing each to drink a small amount of very concentrated milk. You can tell if a rabbit is feeding her young by picking up the kits and carefully examining their stomachs. If they have puffy, rather than sunken, bellies, they are getting enough milk.

4. Keep her calm. This step is especially important if you are dealing with your rabbit's first litter. Your doe is most likely to panic if she senses a problem-- for example, if you are continuously picking up the kits or otherwise disturbing the nest. While it is acceptable to examine the kits daily, you should use caution so as not to disturb the already-nervous mother. Of course, always keep adult male rabbits away from the kits. Some will tolerate their own young, but others will brutally kill their offspring or cause the female to kill them.

5. Get professional help. If you have any questions about the health or safety of the rabbit kits in your care, do not hesitate to contact a rabbit-experienced veterinarian for help and support. In the event that your rabbit has abandoned her kits, prompt intervention can save the litter. And, as Eowyn's story shows, one lost litter does not spell the end of your doe's potential as a parent. By providing proper care for your doe, you maximize her chances of success in later pregnancies.

Do Rabbits and Guinea Pigs Get Along?

When I first adopted my rabbit Nimbus, I noticed that he had several significant bite marks on him. I asked the rescue group where these marks came from, and the worker explained that Nimbus had lived with an aggressive guinea pig, who had fought with him frequently. Nimbus's original owner surrendered him to end the conflicts. Guinea pigs and rabbits don't always get along, but some do. The ability of rabbits and guinea pigs to get along depends largely on the temperament of each individual animal.

Animals are Individuals.

The common question, "Do rabbits and guinea pigs get along?" is as fluid and answerless as the question, "Do cats and dogs get along?" or "Do dogs and people get along?" Animals, like human beings, are individuals and can't always be lumped into assumptions based on their species. Some rabbits are incredibly docile, while others are intensely aggressive. Likewise, many guinea pigs are sweet and social, but others bite, scratch and otherwise engage in territorial and dominant behavior.

Guinea Pigs and Rabbits are Social Animals.

Both guinea pigs and rabbits naturally live in social groups, and they do best when interacting with other animals. Due to their similarity in temperament and social structure, guinea pigs and rabbits may get along very well in a captive environment, helping to keep each other calm and occupied. However, rabbits and guinea pigs also both engage in somewhat aggressive behaviors to establish dominance and determine territory. The tendency toward both bonding and aggression can be at once both helpful and problematic.

Rabbits and Guinea Pigs Need Extra Territory.

A standard-sized cage isn't big enough to be a full-time habitat for even one animal-- and especially not two. Some guinea pig and rabbit owners make the horrible mistake of keeping both animals penned up inside one tiny cage. This will inevitably lead to territorial disputes between the animals, and they may hurt or kill each other in an attempt to claim enough space for both creatures. To keep guinea pigs and rabbits peacefully, maintain separate cages for both animals, and supervise their interactions when they are both loose in the house.

Remember Each Animal's Own Requirements. 
Although it won't hurt your bunny to occasionally nibble guinea pig food, and won't hurt your guinea pig to chow down on bunny food, it's important to remember and maintain the individual needs of both animals. Separate food, bedding, shelter, and roaming space are critical for enabling each animal to thrive. Remember that those broad "small animal foods" usually provide inadequate nutrition and aren't appropriate for feeding both cats and guinea pigs.

Neuter your Males.

It's a good idea to spay and neuter your pet no matter what, but this is particularly true when it comes to cohabitating rabbits and guinea pigs. Male rabbits mark their territory with intense skunky-smelling spray, as do male guinea pigs. When two in-tact males share the same home, they can quickly begin engaging in a spray-war, which will stink up your house and ruin your carpet. For the sake of your own sanity and hygeine, get your male animals snipped at your local vet's office.

Sounds Rabbits Make and What They Mean

We generally think of rabbits as mute animals, but bunnies can be surprisingly vocal. You might hear an entire array of thumps, coos, grunts, growls and squeals from your pet rabbit. Although some are far more talkative than others, most bunnies with make at least a few vocalizations from time to time. Because rabbit guardians are often unaccustomed to the sounds made by bunnies, it's easy to misunderstand what your pet is trying to communicate. Here are some of the most common sounds a rabbit might make-- and what these sounds mean.

Screaming

You will very rarely hear a rabbit scream. And, when you do, it's a sign that the animal is in extreme pain or mortal terror. Never, ever ignore the sound of a rabbit screaming or squealing; it's a sign that something is seriosuly wrong. Take your bunny to the vet immediately if you hear this sound at any point, for any reason.

Tooth Grinding

Bunnies grind their teeth softly when they feel happy and content. It's similar in effect to a cat's purr. Expect to hear this gentle rubbing sound when you pet your bunny or cuddle with him. Although it may sound slightly alarming, this bunny-sound is not indicative of a problem.

Hissing 
Like cats, bunnies tend to hiss when they feel angry or threatened. It is often the warning-sound away or separate your bunny from his companions. Your pet is entitled to space and respect when he feels threatened.

Grunting

A repeated grunting, hum-like sound is a sign of a very happy bunny. Many rabbits do this to signal that they feel calm and affectionate. Unneutered males are especially likely to make this noise when engaging in courtship with other females-- or when attempting to woo their owners. Interpret that playful grunt as a friendly and affectionate greeting.

Honking

It can be startling to hear a goose-like honk from a bunny, but it's actually a fairly common sound for rabbits to make. Like grunting, this sound may come from amorous males, but can also be a friendly greeting. Most commonly, it signals that a bunny wants your attention.

Snoring 
Believe it or not, it's uncommon for pet rabbits to snore. Since rabbits usually sleep with their eyes open, snoring is often the only indication that a bunny is peacefully sleeping. If your bunny seems to snore much more loudly or frequently than usual, take him to the vet to screen for respiratory problems.

What to do About a Sexually Frustrated Male Rabbit

My pet rabbit, Frodo, has turned into a terror in recent weeks. He gnaws on his cage bars for hours on end, struggling to break out. As soon as he is freed of his prison, he sets to work urinating on my floors and destroying my floor boards. I would be angry if I didn't understand the reason for his aggression-- his love interest, Eowyn, whose cage he has been struggling to disassemble for weeks.

Hell hath no fury like a sexually frustrated male rabbit. Currently, Frodo and his mate are taking a hiatus in between litters, and the frustration is driving the male absolutely bonkers. Aggression and destructive behaviors are extremely common among male rabbits who feel sexually frustrated, but there are-- fortunately-- ways to end their distress. Here are a few options.

1. Let them mate. If you're a breeder and your bucks have become too randy for their own good, it may not be a bad idea to let them mate. If it's an appropriate time to prepare for another litter, consider giving your pets the go-ahead to make some baby bunnies.

2. Get your rabbit a plush "friend." Male rabbits will often learn to take out sexual frustration on inanimate objects, including realistic-looking stuffed animals. Buy your pet rabbit a plush bunny toy with relatively realistic proportions. If he's needy enough, it can act as a substitute for the real thing.

3. Keep him away from females. My rabbit's frustrations are always the strongest when he's in relatively close proximity to his female companion. For this reason, I only generally allow them near each other-- caged or otherwise-- when it's an appropriate time for them to mate. If your rabbit is prone to sexual frustration, house him in a completely different room from any potential companions.

4. Give your rabbit a distraction. By providing your rabbit with more room, chew-toys, and areas to explore, you help to keep his mind off his sexual frustrations. A confined, bored rabbit is far more likely to resort to the kinds of destruction most often associated with sexual frustration.

5. Have him neutered. This is the most foolproof method for handling a male rabbit who is frequently sexually frustrated. Neutering entirely solves of the hormonal and physical problems caused by, leading to, and associated with sexual frustration in rabbits. The only down side: neutering is extremely costly for rabbits due to their sensitivity to anesthesia.

Proper care of a pet rabbit can mitigate many of the unpleasant behaviors associated with sexual frustration in males. By providing a stimulating, interactive, safe environment for your pet, you can help to minimize the hormone-associated behaviors you find most troubling.

Are Rabbits Good First Pets for Kids?

Rabbits are among the cutest, cuddliest animals available as pets. A fat, lop-eared rabbit looks as harmless and squeezable as your child's favorite teddy-bear. Because of their harmless appearance and relative ease of care, rabbits are a popular choice as first pets for toddlers and preschoolers. But is a rabbit really a good pet for a toddler or preschooler? It depends on your perspective.

My rabbit Nimbus and my two-year-old daughter are nearly inseparable. When I was three and four years old, my family owned a rabbit who I viewed as a wonderful companion. Rabbits are relatively easy to take care of, and children can easily participate in feeding, petting and cleaning up after pet rabbits. For these reasons, rabbits are fairly compatible with young children.

Toddlers and preschoolers are less likely to feel threatened by a rabbit than by a larger pet, such as a golden retriever. And, unlike very small pets such as hamsters and gerbils, rabbits aren't likely to suffer serious injury in the hands of an overly affectionate child. Pet rabbits are generally less aggressive and easier to handle than their very large or small counterparts.

However, parents make mistakes when they assume that a pet rabbit will passively accept squeezes, cuddles and doll-dress-ups from toddlers and preschoolers. In the wild, rabbits are prey to almost every animal that they encounter. It took centuries of breeding and handling to make domestic rabbits complacent enough to tolerate human affection. But a pet rabbit's natural instincts still take over when it feels threatened-- your rabbit may bite, kick and run away when your child makes unwanted advances toward the animal.

If you think a rabbit's bite is a harmless little "nick," think again. My pet rabbit once bit my daughter when she ignored his leave-me-alone warnings. She bled so severely that I almost had to take her to the hospital. Now, I take extra care to closely supervise every step of my toddler's interactions with Nimbus. All parents should take similar precautions-- never let your toddler or preschooler play unsupervised with your pet rabbit.

Rabbits can be good pets for young children, but only if parents are willing to accept that the animal has the potential to cause injury. Your pet rabbit is not a toy-- he is a living animal with his own feelings, fears and emotions. If you can teach your child to respect your rabbit's boundaries, the rabbit can be an excellent pet. If you want a low-maintenance, easy-going pet that will tolerate abuse, get your child a plush animal, not a live rabbit.

Do Rabbits Ever Sleep?

I'd owned my pet rabbit, a rex named Nimbus, for three days when I realized something strange. I had never seen him sleep. After three days, he seemed to always be awake, whether he was circlng around my feet, running down the hallway or sitting quietly in a corner. I began to wonder: do rabbits sleep at all? And, if they did, why had I never seen Nimbus sleeping?

According to the rabbit information website Fuzzy Rabbit, pet rabbits do indeed sleep. As crepuscular animals, rabbits are most active during dawn and dusk. Rabbits sleep primarily in the peak of the day and the darkest hours of the night. For this reason, they are most likely to be wide awake and active during the times in which most people are able to interact with them-- before and after a typical 9 to 5 work day.

However, a rabbit's crepuscular nature didn't explain why I'd never seen Nimbus sleep. I work from home, so I expected that I'd notice him sleeping from time to time. No matter how frequently I checked on him, his eyes were always open.

As it turns out, rabbits frequently sleep with their eyes open; this creates the illusion that they are always-- or almost always-- awake. Pet rabbits developed this unusual adaptation to shield them from predators. They may be asleep, but a portion of their brain can still detect a sudden change in light or movement.

You can tell a sleeping rabbit from a wide-awake bunny by observing his subtle movements. A sleeping rabbit may twitch his legs occasionally, and his nose will stop wriggling. When a rabbit is in extremely deep sleep, he may close his eyes entirely and look like a "normal" sleeping animal. If your rabbit frequently sleeps with his eyes closed, or begins doing so suddenly, you might consider bringing him to the vet to rule out an illness.

The bottom line? Yes, rabbits do sleep. But they sleep so lightly, and on such a non-human schedule, that you may never notice it.

Help! My Pet Rabbit Hates Me!

Rabbits are soft, fuzzy, warm and utterly cuddle-able. The world would be a wonderful place if they were all openly affectionate, but-- unfortunately-- most pet rabbits don't live up to their cuddly reputation. Many disappointed rabbit guardians have surrendered their animals to shelters, insisting, "My rabbit hates me!"

While you may feel upset about your bunny's behavior, it's unlikely that your pet rabbit hates you. Let's take a look at why your rabbit behaves badly and what you can do to foster a sense of trust.

Understand where the "Hate" Comes From

Rabbits and human beings are very different, but we often ascribe a rabbit's bad behavior to human motives. To a human, physical aggression is a sign of anger or hatred. Rabbits don't bite and kick people because they are angry-- they bite and kick because they feel terrified.

In nature, rabbits are prey animals for thousands of predator species. To survive, they must live their lives in fear. It takes extensive breeding and socialization to create a prey animal that is trusting of larger animals like humans. If your bunny displays aggressive behavior, it isn't because he hates you-- it's because he interprets you as a predator.

Soothing the Fear

If your rabbit spends all his time in a hutch with no human interaction, he will not overcome his fear of humans and you'll never build a strong bond with him. Your rabbit will continue to "hate" you as long as his needs are neglected. Rabbits should be allowed to roam freely in a large expanse of space. Let him romp around your house, explore your laundry pile and sniff your furniture. He will grow more confident as he begins to establish a territory within your home.

Get down to ground level and approach your rabbit cautiously. After a few minutes, he should come to you-- some will even climb into your lap! Do not approach a frightened rabbit too quickly, or it will bring your relationship back to square one. Skittish bunnies also don't like having their noses, butts or bellies touched. Follow his comfort cues.

Establishing a Bond

Feeding is an excellent time to establish a bond with your rabbit. Instead of tossing a bunch of hay to your bunny and leaving him alone in a hutch, feed him directly from your hand while you speak to him in a soft voice. Know his favorite treats and offer them by hand. He will eventually associate you with food and understand that you will not harm him.

Most shy rabbits don't want to be picked up and carried around freely, but almost all of them love to be stroked. Pet the spot between your rabbit's ears and nose. If he likes it, he'll grunt at you and close his eyes. As he learns to trust you, he will eventually allow you to pet and cuddle him more freely.