Eco-Friendly Uses for Used Rabbit Bedding

Since I first started keeping rabbits, they have grown on me more and more as an all-purpose eco-friendly pet. Among the other ecological benefits of rabbits as pets, these snuggly critters provide and endless supply of used rabbit litter-- which, to a gardener, is worth its weight in gold.

The bedding from a rabbit's cage or enclosure can be used in several earth-friendly manners. Here are a few eco-friendly uses for rabbit litter in your garden.

Mulch

This is, by far, the easiest and quickest use for rabbit litter. Many rabbit litters are made from pine and cedar chips, which are excellent mulch products, as well. This tecnique requires absolutely no time investment for composting, because the litter does not need to biodegrade or decompose to act as an effective much.

To use rabbit bedding as mulch, simply spread all of your extra litter around any area that needs mulch-- such as the bases of trees and dormant winter flower-beds. As long as your bunny produces a steady supply of poopy litter, you'll have limitless mulch for all of your gardening needs.

Compost

When allowed to decompose, rabbit bedding becomes an excellent compost material. It is very rich in nitrates and low in ammonia compared to other animal waste products. And, unlike cat poop and dog poop, it does not require years of decomposition before it's safe to use on food crops. You can use all forms of rabbit bedding as compost, including paper pellets, pine and shredded cardboard.

If you are interested in this eco-friendly use for rabbit litter, you can either add it to your base compost pile or use it separately from composted food. Allow it to decompose for 4-24 weeks (depending on the type of bedding material) and then use it as you would use any other form of compost. You shouldn't need additional fertilizer.

Fertilizer

If you need a natural, earth-friendly fertilizer that you can pour or spray directly on your garden plants, rabbit bedding is an ideal base material. Put several scoops of rabbit litter into a one-gallon bucket, then fill it with water and leave it to sit for a few hours or overnight. After this compost "tea" has steeped, it is extremely rich in nutrients such as nitrates and can be poured on your plants.

As a pet guardian, you should take responsibility for your bunny's ecological paw-print. If you are conscientious of your pets' impact on the environment, you can help to ensure that your rabbit helps, rather than harms, the planet that we all share.

Housing Rabbits Outdoors in Winter

It's less than ideal to house rabbits outside. However, the image of a rabbit in an outdoor hutch is every bit as pervasive-- and potentially inhumane-- as the popular idea of a goldfish in a bowl. However, if circumstances dictate that you must house your rabbits outside, there are several things that you may need to know about keeping rabbits outdoors during the winter time.

If you've decided to house your rabbits outside during winter, know these important facts.

1. They won't freeze to death-- usually. Most healthy rabbits are hardy and resilient enough to withstand winter's chill. Unless you live in an extremely cold climate, your rabbits are likely to fare better in winter than they would during the summer months-- heat stroke is a far more common problem in rabbits housed outdoors. Note that most domesticated rabbit breeds originate in the cold regions of Europe, where they have withstood exceptionally harsh winters outdoors for centuries.

2. Dehydration is a greater concern. Outdoor rabbits are more likely to die of dehydration than hypothermia. The reason? Water-bottles freeze quickly in the winter. If the water stays frozen solid for an entire day, your rabbits may perish. Prevent this problem by refilling your water bottles every few hours during the winter. Don't worry about middle-of-the-night refills, though. As long as you attend your rabbits' water needs early in the morning, they should be fine for the night.

3. Some rabbits are at a greater risk. If your rabbit is very old, very young or pregnant, she may be at a greater risk of problems from harsh winter temperatures if she is kept outdoors. These sensitive rabbits should not be kept outdoors during the winter unless you live in an area with exceptionally mild climate, such as the subtropical regions of the U.S. Newborn rabbits kits are at the greatest risk for hypothermia because they have no natural fur and very little body-fat.

4. Don't forget cuddles. Perhaps the most significant problem associated with housing rabbits outdoors during the winter is that the animals suffer from some degree of neglect. Rabbits are extremely social animals, and the isolation of an outdoor cage an be painfully confining. If you do house your rabbits outdoors during the winter time, take at least half an hour per day to cuddle, talk to, and play with your pet. A rabbit is much more harmed by emotional neglect than by an overnight chill.

5. Some stay-warm tips. Several items can help you to maintain a reasonably warm temperature in your rabbit's outdoor cage or hutch. Line your rabbit's home with a generous amount of hay and litter; he can burrow into them at night to stay warm. A heat lamp, such as those used in reptile cages, can also be helpful, as can commercial heating pads advertised for human use. If your local forecast warns of a very hard freeze, take your animals indoors if at all possible.

Guide to Netherland Dwarf Rabbit Care

As a rabbit guardian and small-scale breeder, I have a fondness for the Netherland dwarf rabbit breed. As one of the world's smallest breeds, the Netherland dwarf is popular because of its compact size and its adorably baby-like face. If you are interested in owning a Netherland dwarf rabbit, consider these facts about Netherland dwarf rabbit care.

Upfront Cost

Rabbits are only slghtly less expensive than "real" pets like cats and dogs. Expect to spend about $30 for your Netherland dwarf rabbit, $100 for a cage, $35 for a carrier, $100 for spaying/neutering and $25 for a litter box.

Long-Term Cost

Rabbit food costs about $400 annually for a single Netherland dwarf rabbit. You'll also need to pat about $100 per year for veterinary care and $400 per year for bedding and litter.

Housing

Netherland dwarves can thrive in smaller cages than larger breeds, but your bunny still needs the opportunity to roam freely on occasion. Your rabbit's cage is a nest or bedroom, not a full-time living space. The minimum cage size for an adult Netherland dwarf rabbit is four feet long, two feet wide, and two feet tall.

Feeding

Netherland dwarf rabbits should have an unlimited supply of timothy hay at all times; it is the primary source of nutrition for bunnies of all ages. Give 1/8 to 1/4 cup of pellet feed to your rabbit each day, as well. Fresh vegetables and fruits are an excellent and nutritious treat, but they are not appropriate as a main source of food.

Litter

Netherland dwarf rabbits naturally feel an urge to keep their cages clean. Your rabbit should have a litterbox in his cage filled with paper pellets, aspen shavings, timothy hay, shredded newspaper or recycled paper bedding material. Change this litter entirely every other day to keep his living space clean and fresh.

How to Hold a Rabbit

As a rabbit breeder, I've sold dozens of baby bunnies to eager guardians. Most of them have been well-prepared for adventures in rabbit-raising. They come to me with a basic understanding of how to hold, pet and care for a pet rabbit. However, many would-be rabbit owners know very little about rabbits, and come to me without even understanding how to hold them. I have even seen prospective buyers try to pick up rabbits by their ears before sheepishly admitting that they don't know what to do.

There's no reason to let embarrassment get in the way of responsible pet ownership. If you're interested in owning or even handling a bunny, you should be aware of how to hold a rabbit. Handling bunnies is a fairly simple task but does take a bit of practice. Here are the basic steps involved in correctly holding a pet rabbit.

1. Be gentle. Improper handling of a rabbit can cause the animal to suffer a spinal cord injury, which is paralyzing at best and fatal at worst. Rabbits' spines are relatively delicate and it takes just one strong movement to permanently snap the pet's backbone. Understand that it is dangerous to "rough-house" with a rabbit; you can not jostle them like puppies.

2. Keep the rabbit calm. A panicked bunny can easily hurt itself or you. If you pick up a scared, rabbit, he may kick so hard that he knocks his spine out of alignment. Frightened bunnies are also prone to aggressive behaviors like biting and scratching. If your pet rabbit is resistant to being held, don't pick him up. Pet him gently until he is ready for you hold him.

3. Find a quiet area. This is particularly important if you have a new rabbit who isn't accustomed to being held. Your pet bunny may struggle out of your arms if he gets frightened while you're holding him. Handle your bunny in a room free of dogs, children, radios, televisions or other potentially distressing noise sources.

4. Cup the bunny's butt in one hand. Hold the rabbit so that most of his weight, in the hindquarters, rests in one of your hands. Use the other hand to support his other half. Unless you have the bunny supported against your chest or lap, don't let go with one hand in order to pet him. Keep both hands under the rabbit at all times.

5. Supervise children carefully. A child under the age of ten should never, ever hold a rabbit without assistance. Young children are not only too small to have enough hand-space for a rabbit, but they lack the know-how involved in unsupervised bunny care. If your child wants to hold a rabbit, sit down with her on a floor or sofa while she does so. Then demonstrate the two-handed bunny hold.

6. Look into getting a harness and leash. My pet rabbits have a harness that they wear any time that I am holding them in an area where they should not be loose. When we are outdoors or in a room that isn't bunny-proof, I keep them leashed even while holding them. This way, should they escape, I can easily catch them. If you have a skittish bunny with a tendency to run away, check out your local pet store for leash-and-harness sets. 

Do I Need to Take My Rabbit to the Vet?

As a rabbit breeder, I get a lot of bunny-related questions from prospective buers. Each and every new rabbit-parent asks me a stream of questions about the dietary, habitat, and time requirements involved in bunny care. One of the most common questions I hear is, "Do I have to take it to the vet?"

Most responsible pet guardians know that a veterinary check-up is essential when you purchase a new cat or dog. However, I don't personally believe that a first-time vet visit or annual checkup is necessary for rabbits. Here are a few factors to consider when determining whether you should take your rabbit to the vet.

Rabbits don't need vaccines.

There are no widely available vaccinations for pet rabbits, and no laws require that pet rabbits receive immunizations of any kind Most states require that pet cats and dogs receive rabies vaccines, but these treatments are unnecessary for rabbits, since they would rarely, if ever, spread the rabies. You do not need to bring your bunny in for a round of shots as you might do for a cat or dog.

Bunnies don't usually get worms.

Puppies and kittens usually have to go to the vet at least once to be de-wormed, since intestinal parasites are extremely common in carnivores. However, harmful digestive parasites do not generally affect bunnies, guinea pigs or other herbivores. You do not have to take your rabbit to the vet to test for worms or to treat them.

Spaying and neutering are complex issues for rabbits.

Spaying and neutering are generally the responsible way to go when it comes to owning a pet. Given the notoriously prolific nature of rabbits, it may seem like a no-brainer choice to make. However, the cost of neutering a rabbit ranges from about $150-200 on average since they require special anesthesia. Most rabbit owners are simply unwilling to front that expense. I recommend simply keeping only rabbits of one sex unless you can afford neutering.

The ASPCA does recommend annual vet visits.

Although I know very few rabbit owners who take their bunnies to the vet for check-ups, the ASPCAdoes recommend doing so. A vet can evaluate your bunny for symptoms of disease and injury, and can also answer your questions about pet care. However, I have never personally never heard of a veterinarian diagnosing a rabbit with a disease when it was showing no symptoms.

Always go to the vet immediately if your bunny is sick.

In the wild, rabbits are easy prey, so they have evolved to show few or no signs of illness until they are on the brink of death. If your rabbit is showing signs of sickness, he needs immediate, life-saving medical care. Symptoms like diarrhea, no bowel movements, runny nose, red urine, and lethargy require immediate veterinary evaluation.

Know what's right for you.

If you're a first-time bunny owner and have questions about the well-being of your new ball of fluff, there's no harm in going to the vet for an evaluation. If you want to have your rabbit spayed or neutered, a vet's care is obviously essential. Although it isn't necessary for all rabbits to go to the vet, it's best to contact an expert any time that you are concerned about your bunny's health.

How to Rabbit-Proof Your Home

I thought that childproofing my home was one of the most difficult tasks I'd ever undertaken. It was nothing, though, compared to the challenge of bunny-proofing a house. One single, unsupervised rabbit can quickly wreak havoc on an unprepared room, leaving it pulverized within just a few hours. Although dog and cats get a bad rap for renters and pet care experts, a dog's damage to a house pales in comparison to a single on-the-move bunny.

As a responsible pet owner, you have a responsibility to keep at least one portion of your house safe from your rabbit. No pet should be confined to a cage all day, every day. My own rabbits are allowed to run free in one room of my house, which I have carefully rabbit-proofed to maximize the safety of both my pets and my property.

Here are the minimum steps that rabbit guardians must take to adequately rabbit-proof a home or room.

1. Protect Electrical Cords

Rabbits love to chew electrical cords-- and easy-to-reach cords will be destroyed within minutes in the presence of an untrained rabbit. I learned this the hard way when my first rabbit, Nimbus, destroyed over $100 in appliances in the first week I owned him. I was lucky, though. Many rabbits die of electric shock while chewing on cords. To prevent this common, expensive, and potentially tragic problem, buy spiral cable wrap (available at Radio Shack and online retailers) and use it to thoroughly protect all cords in you rabbit-proof home.

2. Keep House Plants Out of Reach 
House plants are generally not appropriate fodder for a pet rabbit. Many are poisonous and can cause serious illness or death when your bunny accidentally ingests them. If the plant is edible, your bunny's likely to destroy it if it's within his reach. Keep all of your house plants on raised planters or hanging from ceiling hooks. If any leaves shed onto the ground, clean them up immediately to protect your pet.

3. Raise Upholstered Furniture 

A rabbit-proof room can not contain any furniture within bunny-reach if there is any chance that the rabbit can burrow into it. A rabbit will often dig a hole in a sofa, then make a nest inside. Many bunnies will do the same with mattresses. Keep all upholstered furniture in your rabbit-proof room at least six inches off the ground. You might also consider placing boards under and alongside the furniture to deter the rabbit from entering from underneath.

4. Provide Chew Toys

Bunnies are far less likely to resort to destructive chewing behavior if they are given safe, healthy, inexpensive objects to tear and bite. Give your bunny toys, wood chips, plastic toys, old phone books and toilet paper rolls. With these chew-worthy gizmos available, he'll probably ignore your furniture and baseboards. Keep chewable objects in a specific corner of the rabbit-proof room so that your pet associates the area with safety and acceptability.

5. Have a Litterbox 
Keep a litterbox in your rabbit-proof room, so that your bunny has a safe, sanitary place to relieve himself. Most rabbits will litter-train themselves fairly naturally, with little encouragement, but others will have to be constantly supervised until they get the hang of using the litterbox. Place the box in the area of the rabbit-proof room where your bunny tends to gravitate the most. Clean the box regularly so that it looks and smells more inviting (and is less unpleasant to be around.

Rabbit-proofing is no easy task, and I've found that it's nearly impossible to rabbit-proof an entire home. However, by providing just one safe, welcoming environment in which your pet can freely roam, you help to protect not only your own property, but your pet's health, as well.

Can You Use Cat Litter for Rabbits?

When I first got my rabbit, Frodo, his former owner surrendered a large container of perfumed, clumping cat litter laced with tiny blue crystals. She explained that she used this litter instead of standard rabbit bedding because it absorbed odors better and was less expensive. I discovered, after talking to several other rabbit owners, that it's not unusual to favor cat litter over ordinary bedding materials. I've even used some types of cat litter for my own bunnies on occasion. But is it really safe to use cat litter for rabbits? Here are some points to consider.

1. Natural, non-clumping litters are fine. Some cat litters are not just acceptable, but ideal, as rabbit bedding. For example, Yesterday's News, a product made from recycled newspaper, safely and sustainably aborbs odor and moisture. Non-clumping bedding and litter made made from alfalfa, wheat, oat, and citrus are equally acceptable. Use these "cat litters" whenever possible as alternatives for your bunny pal.

2. Avoid cat litters with fragrance or deodorant crystals at all cost. They are toxic to rabbits. Most bunnies will nibble on their bedding material. This is just fine when the material is safe and natural, but it's a huge problem if your bunny's bedding is a perfumed cat litter. Fragrances and deodorizers aren't just irritating to a bunny's sensitive respiratory tract; they can be acutely poisonous if eaten.

3. Clumping cat litters can cause fatal blockages. If your bunny eats a clumping cat litter, it can form a large clump in his digestive tract, preventing the passage of gas or feces. If this happens, your rabbit will either experience intense pain for several hours, followed by a difficult, traumatic, life-threatening surgery-- or, worse, he'll die. This does happen to many rabbits who are exposed to clumping litters.

4. Non-clumping clay litters are still a potential danger. Many clay litters are exceptionally dusty. If your bunny likes to dig, he may kick large amounts of fine particulate matter into the air. When this enters his respiratory tract, it can cause intense irritation, leading to coughing, bronchitis, and even pneumonia. Prolonged exposure to dusty clay litters can cause your bunny to experience life-threatening respiratory damage.

5. Pine- and cedar-based litters can damage the liver. The jury's still out on whether pine and cedar litters are harmful to rabbits. We do know that rabbits exposed to these potentially harmful tree oils often demonstrate elevated liver enzymes, and they may make bunnies more vulnerable to the effects of anesthesia. Although they're affordable and popular, shy away from cat litters and bedding material made from these trees if any reasonable alternatives are available.

What to do About a Sexually Frustrated Male Rabbit

My pet rabbit, Frodo, has turned into a terror in recent weeks. He gnaws on his cage bars for hours on end, struggling to break out. As soon as he is freed of his prison, he sets to work urinating on my floors and destroying my floor boards. I would be angry if I didn't understand the reason for his aggression-- his love interest, Eowyn, whose cage he has been struggling to disassemble for weeks.

Hell hath no fury like a sexually frustrated male rabbit. Currently, Frodo and his mate are taking a hiatus in between litters, and the frustration is driving the male absolutely bonkers. Aggression and destructive behaviors are extremely common among male rabbits who feel sexually frustrated, but there are-- fortunately-- ways to end their distress. Here are a few options.

1. Let them mate. If you're a breeder and your bucks have become too randy for their own good, it may not be a bad idea to let them mate. If it's an appropriate time to prepare for another litter, consider giving your pets the go-ahead to make some baby bunnies.

2. Get your rabbit a plush "friend." Male rabbits will often learn to take out sexual frustration on inanimate objects, including realistic-looking stuffed animals. Buy your pet rabbit a plush bunny toy with relatively realistic proportions. If he's needy enough, it can act as a substitute for the real thing.

3. Keep him away from females. My rabbit's frustrations are always the strongest when he's in relatively close proximity to his female companion. For this reason, I only generally allow them near each other-- caged or otherwise-- when it's an appropriate time for them to mate. If your rabbit is prone to sexual frustration, house him in a completely different room from any potential companions.

4. Give your rabbit a distraction. By providing your rabbit with more room, chew-toys, and areas to explore, you help to keep his mind off his sexual frustrations. A confined, bored rabbit is far more likely to resort to the kinds of destruction most often associated with sexual frustration.

5. Have him neutered. This is the most foolproof method for handling a male rabbit who is frequently sexually frustrated. Neutering entirely solves of the hormonal and physical problems caused by, leading to, and associated with sexual frustration in rabbits. The only down side: neutering is extremely costly for rabbits due to their sensitivity to anesthesia.

Proper care of a pet rabbit can mitigate many of the unpleasant behaviors associated with sexual frustration in males. By providing a stimulating, interactive, safe environment for your pet, you can help to minimize the hormone-associated behaviors you find most troubling.

Breeding Rabbits: Housing Requirements and Tips

The decision to breed rabbits is not one to be taken lightly by casual rabbit-guardians. Like other animals, rabbits require adequate space, exercise, attention, food and shelter. If you do decide that you want to breed rabbits, it is imperative that you make sure you have a good amount of space for accommodating each of your breeders and any kits you may have.

Here are some things to consider regarding housing for your breeding rabbits.

1. Separate males and females. House-rabbits are great, but you should not have any free-roaming males around your females unless the males are neutered. Rabbits will breed indescriminately, even when the does are too young to safely carry a pregnancy. If your doe is already pregnant, she can conceive a second pregnancy if a buck mates with her. This can cause the second litter to be pre-term or the first to result in stillbirth. Additionally, if you don't provide separate housing for males and females, you can't be sure of the kits' pedigrees.

2. Separate males from other males. My rabbit Nimbus, who is neutered, gets along fine with my breeding male. This is because a neutered or prepubescent rabbit will always submit to an unaltered buck. Otherwise, however, you need to separate your males from one another. After puberty, unaltered males will become extremely aggressive toward one another. These heated battles can lead to ripped testicles, broken bones and death. Don't allow it.

3. Socialize your bunnies. Although you need to separate unaltered males from females and one another, your breeding rabbits need and deserve to be socialized regularly. Provide communal housing for your females. Take each of your rabbits out every day-- remembering that they are pets, not livestock-- and spend some time with them. Allow your breeding rabbits to become familiar with your voice, smell and appearance. Your rabbits need to trust you and one another; they are social creatures and do not deserve to live in isolation.

4. Remember play time. Rabbits are naturally playful, breeding rabbits included. At my house, I have a large, predator-proof, outdoor "play yard" that I made as a home for my neutered male. I allow my females to run around in it a few times per day, then I allow males to play in it one at a time. I also allow each of my rabbits to come into the house for a few minutes every day explore and to spend time with humans.

5. Provide enough space. Your rabbits' cage or hutch should be at least four times the length of the rabbit's body. If you are housing multiple rabbits in a single cage or hutch, you need to double, triple or quadruple this number to provide a sufficient amount of space. Your breeding rabbits' housing requirements are identical to those associated with non-breeding pet rabbits.

6. Protect them from the elements. If you live in a mild climate and your rabbits are able to get out of their cages several times a day, it can be okay to keep your pet breeding rabbits in an outdoor hutch. However, make sure to provide housing that protects your rabbits from heat, cold and wetness. Your rabbits should have an area, such as a blanket or a nest-box, that provides warmth on cool nights. Provide limitless water year-round, and bring them into a temperature-controlled environment if the temperature falls below 35 degrees or exceeds 90 degrees. These tempeatures can lead to hypothermia or heat stroke even in healthy rabbits with proper housing.

Eco-Friendly Pet Rabbit Care

When I brought home my beautiful rex rabbit Nimbus, I was determined to make sure that I kept his ecological paw-print as minimal as possible. When compared to high-need carnivores like cats and dogs, rabbits are very eco-friendly pets. I'm proud to say that my sweetie Nimbus has a negligible impact on the environment.

Here are a few tips for eco-friendly pet rabbit care.

Sustainable Rabbit Food

A rabbit's diet is green because it's... well, green. Meat has a tremendous impact on our environment, because pigs, chickens and cattle require tons of pesticide-laden foods just to grow a few ounces of meat. As a natural herbivore, your pet rabbit has a sustainable diet because he can thrive on low-impact, plant-based foods.

The staple of a pet rabbit's diet is hay, which is actually a by-product of the grain industry. You can keep your rabbit's diet green by purchasing by-product hay from your local farm supply store-- organic is even better! Additionally, pet rabbits love grass-clippings, which are readily available around your neighborhood and have no ecological impact.

Keep your pet rabbit's diet green by using him as a living alternative to a compost bin. There's no need to buy ecologically detrimental foods to feed your fuzzy friend. Give him your lettuce hearts, strawberry tops, carrot stems and corn cobs. He'll enjoy it and you'll be helping out the planet.

Greening your Rabbit's Toys

Pet rabbits need to chew to keep their teeth worn down. If they don't, their teeth may become so overgrown that they are unable to eat. Bored rabbits may resort to cords, plastic bowls and furniture if they aren't given ample entertainment, so it's important to provide them with a healthy alternative.

You can buy your rabbit a bunch of plastic-wrapped toys if you want, but why bother? Your rabbit doesn't know the difference between a ten-dollar chew toy and a piece of trash. My bunny Nimbus loves to chow down on empty cereal boxes, cardboard tubes and old phone books. Not only does this keep his teeth worn down, but it keeps him entertained and it puts our trash to good use.

Commercial rabbit toys are often made of materials that can leach toxins like bisophenol-A (BPA) into your pet rabbit's bloodstream. Additionally, because plastic is un-digestible, bits of the material may clog his digestive tract and necessitate emergency surgery. Help out your bunny and the planet by giving him your un-wanted, non-toxic paper products.

Preventing Overpopulation

Rabbits breed like rabbits. And twenty-five rabbits have twenty-five times the ecological impact of a single rabbit. If your unplanned bunnies escaped, that could wreak ecological havoc on the environment and cause a persistent, catastrophic burst of feral bunnies in your area. Don't participate in the mayhem of pet overpopulation.

If you've got a passion for bunnies and a bunch of pedigreed purebreds in your home, you may want to consider becoming a professional breeder. However, it's unethical and downright irresponsible to breed bunnies just because you happen to have two of them.

If you have more than one rabbit and a mix of genders, it is critical that you get them spayed and neutered before they have a chance to multiply. Be sure to go to a veterinarian who has experience spaying and neutering rabbits. Not only will this help to curb the issue of pet overpopulation, but it will also offer health benefits to your pet.

Treat your bunny right, and you'll have a warm, fuzzy companion for the next decade. Treat the planet right, and you'll ensure that both of our species can thrive for generations to come.

Allergic to your rabbit? What to do

I have suffered from severe seasonal allergies all my life, but no allergy test has ever shown that I have an allergy to rabbits, cats, dogs or any other pet. When I adopted my pet rabbit, Nimbus, I was surprised by how quickly I developed severe allergy symptoms. My eyes watered uncontrollably, my throat itched, and I sneezed dozens of times in a row. Between sneezes, I fumbled to find my medical records. I confirmed, based on skin-tests, that I wasn't allergic to rabbits-- so why was I reacting so strongly when I was in Nimbus's presence?

As it turns out, my apparent allergy to my pet rabbit wasn't what it seemed to be. The primary staple food in a pet rabbit's diet is hay-- most often timothy hay, a nutritious form of dried grass available at almost all pet stores. My skin-tests have all shown that I have a severe allergy to timothy grass, but it took me several days to realize that my pet rabbit's food-- not the rabbit himself-- was causing my problem.

If you believe you are allergic to your pet rabbit, don't take Fuzzy to the shelter just yet. It's likely that you, too, suffer from an allergy to timothy hay or another form of grass. In my case, the dustiness and maturity of timothy hay made it significantly more allergenic than lawn-grass, but I had initially failed to realzie that it was the cause of my problem.

The ASPCA acknowledges the importance of hay in a rabbit's diet, but it is possible to raise a healthy rabbit without involving this dusty, potently allergenic grass in his life. The key is to maintain diversity to prevent nutritional deficiencies.. Some healthy, non-allergenic foods for rabbits include:

Grass Clippings

Unlike hay, these are cut before the plant reaches maturity, so they are not as likely to cause you a problem.

Grape Leaves

These are nutritious and do not cause allergy problems for you or your rabbit.

Romaine Lettuce

Much more nutritious and iceberg lettuce, romaine can fill the gaps in your pet rabbit's diet. Large amounts may upset your rabbit's stomach.

Commercial Feed

These blends are not likely to cause you an allergic reaction. Although commercial feed is often made from timothy hay, it is usually compressed and processed, so it does not spread allergenic dust into the air. Note that commercial rabbit food may cause obesity if used in excess.

Squashes and Melons

Although these fruits are too sugary for your pet rabbit to eat on a daily basis, they are a healthy snack. My rabbit particularly enjoys the rind from watermelon and honeydew.

Carrots

Perhaps the most famous rabbit food, carrots are a great treat to give your rabbit once a week or less. Carrot root will not cause you to have an allergic reaction when you feed your pet rabbit. However, it is important to remember that carrots are very sweet and nutritionally imbalanced; you should not make carrots the staple of your pet's diet.

Alfalfa Hay

Alfalfa is slightly less likely than timothy hay to cause allergy symptoms in humans. Because of this, it can be a great alternative to timothy hay for rabbits whose owners suffer from allergies. Due to its high protein content, it is best to limit your rabbit's alfalfa intake to prevent obesity and other healt problems.

If your allergy symptoms continue after you stop feeding your rabbit timothy hay, you may actually be allergic to rabbit dander. If you can't control your allergy symptoms, you may need to find a new home for your pet rabbit. Consult a licensed health care provider-- preferably an allergy specialist-- if you have any concerns regarding your allergy symptoms of overall health.

Help! My Pet Rabbit Hates Me!

Rabbits are soft, fuzzy, warm and utterly cuddle-able. The world would be a wonderful place if they were all openly affectionate, but-- unfortunately-- most pet rabbits don't live up to their cuddly reputation. Many disappointed rabbit guardians have surrendered their animals to shelters, insisting, "My rabbit hates me!"

While you may feel upset about your bunny's behavior, it's unlikely that your pet rabbit hates you. Let's take a look at why your rabbit behaves badly and what you can do to foster a sense of trust.

Understand where the "Hate" Comes From

Rabbits and human beings are very different, but we often ascribe a rabbit's bad behavior to human motives. To a human, physical aggression is a sign of anger or hatred. Rabbits don't bite and kick people because they are angry-- they bite and kick because they feel terrified.

In nature, rabbits are prey animals for thousands of predator species. To survive, they must live their lives in fear. It takes extensive breeding and socialization to create a prey animal that is trusting of larger animals like humans. If your bunny displays aggressive behavior, it isn't because he hates you-- it's because he interprets you as a predator.

Soothing the Fear

If your rabbit spends all his time in a hutch with no human interaction, he will not overcome his fear of humans and you'll never build a strong bond with him. Your rabbit will continue to "hate" you as long as his needs are neglected. Rabbits should be allowed to roam freely in a large expanse of space. Let him romp around your house, explore your laundry pile and sniff your furniture. He will grow more confident as he begins to establish a territory within your home.

Get down to ground level and approach your rabbit cautiously. After a few minutes, he should come to you-- some will even climb into your lap! Do not approach a frightened rabbit too quickly, or it will bring your relationship back to square one. Skittish bunnies also don't like having their noses, butts or bellies touched. Follow his comfort cues.

Establishing a Bond

Feeding is an excellent time to establish a bond with your rabbit. Instead of tossing a bunch of hay to your bunny and leaving him alone in a hutch, feed him directly from your hand while you speak to him in a soft voice. Know his favorite treats and offer them by hand. He will eventually associate you with food and understand that you will not harm him.

Most shy rabbits don't want to be picked up and carried around freely, but almost all of them love to be stroked. Pet the spot between your rabbit's ears and nose. If he likes it, he'll grunt at you and close his eyes. As he learns to trust you, he will eventually allow you to pet and cuddle him more freely.