4 Giant Breeds of Rabbit

Several years ago, I saw a woman walking her pet through a park. From a distance, the animal looked like a plump, medium-sized dog; its haunches were higher than her knees. As I got closer, I saw that the animal wasn't a dog at all, but an extremely large rabbit. According to his owner, this gigantic bunny weighed in at nearly twenty pounds-- nearly five times the size of an average rabbit.

There are several giant breeds of rabbit available as show-rabbits, pets and livestock. Here are a few of the most popular giant rabbit breeds.

Flemish Giant

One of the oldest and most remarkable breeds of rabbit, the Flemish giant is a true Goliath among bunnies. Flemish giant rabbits were originally bred in Belgium for their meat and fur. In its ancestry are the Steenkonijn, or "stone rabbit" breed and the now-extinct European "patagonian" breed. Flemish giants are very friendly and docile and will tolerate a large amount of handling. They are known for their dense, glossy fur and broad, muscular builds.

Checkered Giant

Known as the giant papillon in Europe, the checkered giant rabbit breed is only slightly smaller than the Flemish giant. Checkerd giants usually weigh about 12 pounds and exhibit a distinctive coat-pattern that can be either "blue" (cool gray) or black. American checkered giants differ slightly from their European cousins, but the breed standard is the same for both. Checkered giants do not provide quality meat; they are bred almost exclusively as show rabbits and pets.

French Lop

Produced by breeding the Flemish giant with the English lop, French lops are one of the most undeniably hug-able giant breeds of rabbit. These stout bunnies weigh in at about ten pounds and have long, floppy ears that hang by the side of their heads. Its coat is dense and soft. Breeders and showers accept two varieties of the French lop-- solid and broken. These house-bunnies have very relaxed temperaments can can learn to get along with children, cats, and even dogs.

Giant Chinchilla

Giant chinchilla rabbits weigh 12-16 pounds and result in a cross between Flemish giants and the chincilla rabbit breed. Giant chinchilla rabbits are sold primarily as meat rabbits, but they can also be excellent pets if kept properly. Its name refers to the similarity between the breed's fur and that of a chinchilla. The giant chinchilla is extremely dense; it carries strong muscles and thick, stocky bones.

If you are interested in owning a giant breed of rabbit, make sure that you have the proper accommodations to humanely house them. A giant breed of rabbit can not live in a "normal" rabbit cage; they require plenty of open space to roam freely. Consult a professional breeder for more help choosing a rabbit breed.

When Are Rabbits Old Enough to Breed?

If you are interested in breeding rabbits, you will need to calculate the age at when your rabbits are old enough to breed. Rabbits mature at different rates depending on their size, breed, nutrition and environment. If you have questions about breeding rabbits, it's a good idea to consult the breeder who you got your rabbits from. He or she will know about the family history of maturation and parenting behavior of your breeding pair.

It is critical to know when your rabbits are old enough to breed, because a pregnancy in a very young female rabbit can result in the death of the mother or her offspring. Before the doe is fully developed, a pregnancy can cause her death because it drains her of nutrition and muscle mass. The babies may also be too large to fit through her birth canal, in which case she and the babies will all die without immediate veterinary care.

When determining if you rabbit is old enough to breed, you need to be aware of the rabbit's emotional and mental maturity as well as its physical maturity. A young doe may be physically capable of conceiving a pregnancy and giving birth, but she may not be able to care for her young properly until she is older. Breed your rabbit only when she behaves like an adult, consistently acting independently of her parents and siblings.

In general, female rabbits are physically old enough to breed sooner than males. A small-breed doe, such as a mini-rex or Netherland dwarf, can mate at 5 months of age. A medium-breed doe, such as a standard rex or English spot, is not ready until she has reached 6 months old. Does from large breeds, such as the New Zealand, are old enough to mate at 7 months of age, and giant breeds like the French lop should not mate until they are 8 months old or more.

Because bucks mature slightly later than does, they generally need about one month longer than their female counterparts. A male rabbit will have fully descended, functioning testicles at 6 months of age if he is a small breed. Medium-breed bucks are old enough to mate when they are 7 months old. Large-breed males can mate at 8 months of age, and giant males are fully mature at 8.5- 9 months.

There are several signs that can give you a clue that your rabbits are old enough to breed. They will begin to emit a strong, musky odor-- particularly the males. The male rabbits will have visible testicles that may be somewhat "dangly," particularly when they are interested in mating. A mature female rabbit will have a reddish or violet vent area during her fertile days (about 13 out of every 15 days).

If you have chosen a good breeding pair and both of your rabbits are old enough to mate, it's time to get started. Be sure that you have proper housing accommodations and plans regarding your future kits. Responsibiltiy is a key component of pet guardianship and breeding.

Eco-Friendly Uses for Used Rabbit Bedding

Since I first started keeping rabbits, they have grown on me more and more as an all-purpose eco-friendly pet. Among the other ecological benefits of rabbits as pets, these snuggly critters provide and endless supply of used rabbit litter-- which, to a gardener, is worth its weight in gold.

The bedding from a rabbit's cage or enclosure can be used in several earth-friendly manners. Here are a few eco-friendly uses for rabbit litter in your garden.

Mulch

This is, by far, the easiest and quickest use for rabbit litter. Many rabbit litters are made from pine and cedar chips, which are excellent mulch products, as well. This tecnique requires absolutely no time investment for composting, because the litter does not need to biodegrade or decompose to act as an effective much.

To use rabbit bedding as mulch, simply spread all of your extra litter around any area that needs mulch-- such as the bases of trees and dormant winter flower-beds. As long as your bunny produces a steady supply of poopy litter, you'll have limitless mulch for all of your gardening needs.

Compost

When allowed to decompose, rabbit bedding becomes an excellent compost material. It is very rich in nitrates and low in ammonia compared to other animal waste products. And, unlike cat poop and dog poop, it does not require years of decomposition before it's safe to use on food crops. You can use all forms of rabbit bedding as compost, including paper pellets, pine and shredded cardboard.

If you are interested in this eco-friendly use for rabbit litter, you can either add it to your base compost pile or use it separately from composted food. Allow it to decompose for 4-24 weeks (depending on the type of bedding material) and then use it as you would use any other form of compost. You shouldn't need additional fertilizer.

Fertilizer

If you need a natural, earth-friendly fertilizer that you can pour or spray directly on your garden plants, rabbit bedding is an ideal base material. Put several scoops of rabbit litter into a one-gallon bucket, then fill it with water and leave it to sit for a few hours or overnight. After this compost "tea" has steeped, it is extremely rich in nutrients such as nitrates and can be poured on your plants.

As a pet guardian, you should take responsibility for your bunny's ecological paw-print. If you are conscientious of your pets' impact on the environment, you can help to ensure that your rabbit helps, rather than harms, the planet that we all share.

Housing Rabbits Outdoors in Winter

It's less than ideal to house rabbits outside. However, the image of a rabbit in an outdoor hutch is every bit as pervasive-- and potentially inhumane-- as the popular idea of a goldfish in a bowl. However, if circumstances dictate that you must house your rabbits outside, there are several things that you may need to know about keeping rabbits outdoors during the winter time.

If you've decided to house your rabbits outside during winter, know these important facts.

1. They won't freeze to death-- usually. Most healthy rabbits are hardy and resilient enough to withstand winter's chill. Unless you live in an extremely cold climate, your rabbits are likely to fare better in winter than they would during the summer months-- heat stroke is a far more common problem in rabbits housed outdoors. Note that most domesticated rabbit breeds originate in the cold regions of Europe, where they have withstood exceptionally harsh winters outdoors for centuries.

2. Dehydration is a greater concern. Outdoor rabbits are more likely to die of dehydration than hypothermia. The reason? Water-bottles freeze quickly in the winter. If the water stays frozen solid for an entire day, your rabbits may perish. Prevent this problem by refilling your water bottles every few hours during the winter. Don't worry about middle-of-the-night refills, though. As long as you attend your rabbits' water needs early in the morning, they should be fine for the night.

3. Some rabbits are at a greater risk. If your rabbit is very old, very young or pregnant, she may be at a greater risk of problems from harsh winter temperatures if she is kept outdoors. These sensitive rabbits should not be kept outdoors during the winter unless you live in an area with exceptionally mild climate, such as the subtropical regions of the U.S. Newborn rabbits kits are at the greatest risk for hypothermia because they have no natural fur and very little body-fat.

4. Don't forget cuddles. Perhaps the most significant problem associated with housing rabbits outdoors during the winter is that the animals suffer from some degree of neglect. Rabbits are extremely social animals, and the isolation of an outdoor cage an be painfully confining. If you do house your rabbits outdoors during the winter time, take at least half an hour per day to cuddle, talk to, and play with your pet. A rabbit is much more harmed by emotional neglect than by an overnight chill.

5. Some stay-warm tips. Several items can help you to maintain a reasonably warm temperature in your rabbit's outdoor cage or hutch. Line your rabbit's home with a generous amount of hay and litter; he can burrow into them at night to stay warm. A heat lamp, such as those used in reptile cages, can also be helpful, as can commercial heating pads advertised for human use. If your local forecast warns of a very hard freeze, take your animals indoors if at all possible.

Guide to Netherland Dwarf Rabbit Care

As a rabbit guardian and small-scale breeder, I have a fondness for the Netherland dwarf rabbit breed. As one of the world's smallest breeds, the Netherland dwarf is popular because of its compact size and its adorably baby-like face. If you are interested in owning a Netherland dwarf rabbit, consider these facts about Netherland dwarf rabbit care.

Upfront Cost

Rabbits are only slghtly less expensive than "real" pets like cats and dogs. Expect to spend about $30 for your Netherland dwarf rabbit, $100 for a cage, $35 for a carrier, $100 for spaying/neutering and $25 for a litter box.

Long-Term Cost

Rabbit food costs about $400 annually for a single Netherland dwarf rabbit. You'll also need to pat about $100 per year for veterinary care and $400 per year for bedding and litter.

Housing

Netherland dwarves can thrive in smaller cages than larger breeds, but your bunny still needs the opportunity to roam freely on occasion. Your rabbit's cage is a nest or bedroom, not a full-time living space. The minimum cage size for an adult Netherland dwarf rabbit is four feet long, two feet wide, and two feet tall.

Feeding

Netherland dwarf rabbits should have an unlimited supply of timothy hay at all times; it is the primary source of nutrition for bunnies of all ages. Give 1/8 to 1/4 cup of pellet feed to your rabbit each day, as well. Fresh vegetables and fruits are an excellent and nutritious treat, but they are not appropriate as a main source of food.

Litter

Netherland dwarf rabbits naturally feel an urge to keep their cages clean. Your rabbit should have a litterbox in his cage filled with paper pellets, aspen shavings, timothy hay, shredded newspaper or recycled paper bedding material. Change this litter entirely every other day to keep his living space clean and fresh.

Do Female Rabbits Hump Each Other?

I'm a small-scale rabbit breeder, but still very new bunny-breeding. A few days ago, while I was tending my three mini-rex rabbits, I noticed my five-month-old doe, Eowyn, mounting or "humping" her sister Arwen. Although I knew that male rabbits "hump" one another to display dominance, I didn't know that females engaged in the same behavior. My first thought was that the original breeder and I had both mis-identified Eowyn's sex.

I carefully examined Eowyn's genitals and confirmed that she was female-- or, at least, I was fairly certain that she was. Still, to double-check, I called her original breeder and asked for advice. As it turns out, females frequently hump one another at the time that they reach puberty; it is their way of asserting dominance without any bloody battles.

If your female rabbit has begun humping another doe, it's likely that they're simply involved in a mild argument over territory or dominance. If it continues for more than a few days, you may need to separate them to prevent a serious fight. Most of the time, mounting or "humping" behavior in does is very temporary and will not last long.

There is, however, another possibility behind your female rabbit displaying "humping" behavior. Your rabbit's sex may have been mis-identified, especially if you got "her" at a young age or from a breeder who did not examine her carefully enough. If your rabbit is male, you need to know this as quickly as possible to prevent an unwanted litter of kits.

To accurately determine the sex of your rabbit, press gentle on each side of its vent area. If it is male, a pointy tube with a hole at the end will protrude. If it is female, a smaller wedge-shaped organ will protrude. Un-neutered males also usually have palpable testicles, which descend between 9 and 20 weeks of age. These appear as sagging bags on each side of his vent area. There's nothing pleasant about sexing a rabbit, it's necessary to make sure that your female rabbit is, in fact, a female.

Netherland Dwarf Rabbit Breed Information

The Netherland dwarf is one of the most popular breeds of domestic rabbit. As the name implies, this tiny breed originates in the Netherlands and is significantly smaller than most other rabbit breeds. In general, a true Netherland dwarf will weigh between 1 and 3.5 pounds, making it roughly half the size of an average domestic rabbit. The breed's small stature makes it an ideal pet; it can live comfortably in relatively confined spaces.

Netherland dwarf rabbbits have plush, silky fur coats and adorably baby-like appearances. Their ears are small and erect, and their faces have a round, shortened face. Additionally, Netherland dwarf rabbits have large eyes compared to other breeds, giving them facial expressions similar to young kits. These adorably babyish features often cause people to mistake adult Netherland dwarf rabbits for young kits of other breeds.

The American Rabbit Breeder's Association, or ARBA, allows many different colors and patterns in show-quality, purebred Netherland dwarf rabbits. Allowed colors include black, blue, chocolate, lilac, smoke pearl, tortoiseshell, sable point, Himalayan, chestnut, Siamese sable, opal, lynx, steel, fawn, orange, broken, chinchilla, otter, squirrel, tan, silver marten, sable marten, smoke pearl marten, blue-eyed white and ruby-eyed white.

Netherland dwarf rabbits are sometimes more neurotic or aggressive than other breeds. They may have a tendency to love-bite, dig or chew more than other breeds. Many, however, are extremely docile. By nature, the Netherland dwarf is curious, bright, and social. It will bond strongly with its human guardians and will intentionally seek human interaction. Their sociability and manageable size make them good choices for homes with children.

Netherland dwarf rabbits have the same basic behavioral traits as dogs or cats. They can be litter-trained, but success varies amongst trainers of any breed.

The Netherland dwarf is the ancestor of most dwarf and "mini" rabbit breeds. The Holland lop, mini-rex and Jersey wooly are all ARBA-approved breeds derived from the Netherland dwarf. In general, these dwarf breeds run slightly larger than Netherland dwarf rabbits, and retain the temperaments and coat types of their other parent breeds.

Netherland dwarf rabbits are difficult to breed. Conception is a challenge, and kit mortality is high. When two "true dwarf" rabbits-- purebred Netherland dwarfs weighing less than 2.5 pounds-- are bred, approximately 25% of the kits will inherit the "peanut" trait, which causes extreme dwarfism. The peanut trait is 100% fatal. For this reason, many breeders will mate true dwarf rabbits with slightly larger "false dwarf" rabbits, to prevent this fatal defect.

Why are My Female Rabbits Fighting?

As a small-scale breeder of mini-rex rabbits, I was surprised the first time I saw two of my female rabbits fighting. Arwen and Eowyn are sisters and have been inseparable since birth. Although I knew that females could become aggressive toward one another, I never thought that those two would exhibit this behavior. Unfortunately, even female rabbits who are very well-bonded will fight occasionally.

There are several reasons that female rabbits may begin fighting. Here are a few.

1. They are establishing dominance. Like males, female rabbits need to have some form of social structure. By the time they are sexually mature, females will have a few little spats to determine which rabbit is the top-bunny. These fights are usually not serious and simply involve a few rounds of mounting ("humping") and kicking. Unless it seems that one is being injured, let them be. They will resolve the problem and go back to bonding within a few days.

2. They are competing for territory. In a house where they are allowed to roam freely, female rabbits will usually get along well. However, two female rabbits will fight endlessly if they are in one cage, especially if it is inadequately sized and has little room to roam. If your rabbits must stay caged for a significant portion of the day, either give them separate cages or one that is very large (at least ten feet long and three feet wide). Rabbits may also compete for specific objects; Arwen and Eowyn argue frequently over the larger of their two water-bottles.

3. They need more attention. If your rabbits are kept in a cramped cage most of the time and don't see you very often, they are likely to take out their general frustration on one another. Keep your rabbits in a clean, adequately sized house and give them plenty of love and attention. If your female rabbits are generally emotionally healthy, aggresive behavior is less likely.

4. The simply don't like each other. If your two rabbits were introduced as adults, and not kits, they may never bond. If your two rabbits simply can't stand one another, you can either introduce them to each other gradually, in supervised sessions, or must refrain from allowing them to be together. Otherwise, you may end up with one or two dead bunnies. Female rabbits do not generally fight as aggressively as males, but two females who don't get along may fight to the death.

Has My Rabbit Abandoned Her Kits?

When my rabbit Eowyn, a mini-rex, gave birth to her first litter of kits, she seemed nervous and unsure of herself. The day after she gave birth, I found one of the kits dead, bruised, and clearly underfed. I immediately seized the other three. Two died on the way to the vet's office; the other died in the veterinarian's hands. As the doctor sadly informed me, my rabbit had abandoned, and then killed, her entire litter. I was devastated-- but relieved when, the next go-around, Eowyn raised a healthy litter of seven kits.

It isn't uncommon for a rabbit to abandon or kill her kits, especially her first time around. But it is far more common for rabbit guardians to erroneously assume that the mothers have abandoned their young. Before you start attempting to rescue baby bunnies from an apparently neglectful mother, take these critical steps to ensure that your assessment is correct.

1. Look for signs of injury. If one or more of your baby bunnies shows bite-marks, scratches, bruises or other noticeable injuries, it's likely that the mother has intentionally or negligently hurt them. In this case, get all of the kits-- not just those who are visibly injured-- to a vet promptly before she kills all of her young. (Be sure to wrap them warmly in a towel; young kits are prone to hypothermia.) If you notice only minor scratches, carefully monitor the kits for additional signs of injury before taking them from their mother.

2. Observe the rabbit's nesting behavior. If your doe didn't build a nest at all, it's almost certainly a sign that she will abandon her kits-- if she hasn't already. Eowyn built an inadequate nest before her first litter, which she abandoned. Although she did pull out her fur and distribute it in the area where she gave birth, the nest wasn't deep enough, wide enough or covered enough to accommodate the kits. When kindling is inadequate-- or when a rabbit fails to kindle at all-- it is a sign that she doesn't know what she is doing. A rabbit who does not build a nest at all will almost always abandon or injure her young. A well-built, well-tended nest is a sign that she is interested in her kits and dedicated to their care.

3. Check for well-fed bellies. Rabbits only feed their kits once or twice per day, so it's likely that you'll rarely or never see your doe nursing her offspring. Rabbits do not lie with their kits the way that mother dogs and cats will lie with their young. Instead, they stand over the kits for just a few moments, allowing each to drink a small amount of very concentrated milk. You can tell if a rabbit is feeding her young by picking up the kits and carefully examining their stomachs. If they have puffy, rather than sunken, bellies, they are getting enough milk.

4. Keep her calm. This step is especially important if you are dealing with your rabbit's first litter. Your doe is most likely to panic if she senses a problem-- for example, if you are continuously picking up the kits or otherwise disturbing the nest. While it is acceptable to examine the kits daily, you should use caution so as not to disturb the already-nervous mother. Of course, always keep adult male rabbits away from the kits. Some will tolerate their own young, but others will brutally kill their offspring or cause the female to kill them.

5. Get professional help. If you have any questions about the health or safety of the rabbit kits in your care, do not hesitate to contact a rabbit-experienced veterinarian for help and support. In the event that your rabbit has abandoned her kits, prompt intervention can save the litter. And, as Eowyn's story shows, one lost litter does not spell the end of your doe's potential as a parent. By providing proper care for your doe, you maximize her chances of success in later pregnancies.

Black and White Rabbit Breeds

I breed Netherland dwarf and mini-rex rabbits, so many friends and relatives view me as the go-to girl for questions about bunnies. Surprisingly, few of these questions have to do with rabbit care or the breeds I raise. In fact, the most common question I hear is, "What do you call that black-and-white kind of rabbit?"

I never know exactly what that black-and-white rabbit breed is, because there are several breeds with black-and-white markings. Without seeing the bunny in person or hearing a detailed description, I have no way of identifying its breed. Here are some of the most common breeds of rabbit known for their black-and-white patterns.

Dutch

I believe that this is the breed that most people are visualizing when they talk about "that black-and-white rabbit." Dutch rabbits are known for their beautiful, unique markings, which have been compared to oreo cookies. A dutch rabbit has a wedge of white in the middle of its face, known as the "blaze." The area from its neck to its middle. including the feet, is also white. Additional white markings appear on the rear feet. Most pet dutch rabbits are black and white, but other colors-- blue, chocolate, gray, steel and tortoise-- are also accepted in conjunction with white.

English Spot

An English spot rabbit is another breed noted for its characteristic pattern, which is often black and white. English spot rabbits are primarily white, with a "butterfly" marking on their noses, cheek spots, circles around their eyes, pigmented ears, "herringbone" pattern along the spine, and a chain of spots along the haunches. English spots are an English breed, ranging from 5 to 8 pounds on average. Although most are black and white, others are white with blue, chocolate, gray, gold, lilac or tortoise coloration.

Checkered Giant

A close relative of the English spot, the checkered giant is nearly identical in pattern, but much larger. Checkered giants routinely top ten to twelve towns. Its markings are very similar to the English spot, but generally bolder and broader. Checkered giants are almost always black, but a few checkered giants have blue spots instead of black. These hefty "dalmations" among rabbits are popular as pets.

Himalayan

Like Siamese cats, Himalayan rabbits have a gene that causes pigment to deposit only in the coolest areas of the body. The Himalayan breed is solid white with dark points on the nose, ears, tail, and feet. It is born white, but gets spots as it ages and matures. The original Himalayan rabbit breed was only black and white, but Himalayan rabbits with blue, chocolate and lilac points are now also accepted. When a person describes a black-and-white rabbit breed by comparing it to a Siamese cat, I always know that the person is thinking of a Himalayan.

Blanc de Hotot 
The Blanc de Hotot is a relatively new breed with only black and white markings. Its entire body is white, except for a ring of black "eyeliner" around its eye. These beautiful bunnies are continuing to be developed into newer forms and colors, and ARBA now recognizes the dwarf hotot as a miniature variety of the blanc de hotot. This one is so new, and relatively rare, that most people do not think of it when they envision black and white rabbits. Over time, as the breed gains popularity, this may change.

Do Rabbits and Guinea Pigs Get Along?

When I first adopted my rabbit Nimbus, I noticed that he had several significant bite marks on him. I asked the rescue group where these marks came from, and the worker explained that Nimbus had lived with an aggressive guinea pig, who had fought with him frequently. Nimbus's original owner surrendered him to end the conflicts. Guinea pigs and rabbits don't always get along, but some do. The ability of rabbits and guinea pigs to get along depends largely on the temperament of each individual animal.

Animals are Individuals.

The common question, "Do rabbits and guinea pigs get along?" is as fluid and answerless as the question, "Do cats and dogs get along?" or "Do dogs and people get along?" Animals, like human beings, are individuals and can't always be lumped into assumptions based on their species. Some rabbits are incredibly docile, while others are intensely aggressive. Likewise, many guinea pigs are sweet and social, but others bite, scratch and otherwise engage in territorial and dominant behavior.

Guinea Pigs and Rabbits are Social Animals.

Both guinea pigs and rabbits naturally live in social groups, and they do best when interacting with other animals. Due to their similarity in temperament and social structure, guinea pigs and rabbits may get along very well in a captive environment, helping to keep each other calm and occupied. However, rabbits and guinea pigs also both engage in somewhat aggressive behaviors to establish dominance and determine territory. The tendency toward both bonding and aggression can be at once both helpful and problematic.

Rabbits and Guinea Pigs Need Extra Territory.

A standard-sized cage isn't big enough to be a full-time habitat for even one animal-- and especially not two. Some guinea pig and rabbit owners make the horrible mistake of keeping both animals penned up inside one tiny cage. This will inevitably lead to territorial disputes between the animals, and they may hurt or kill each other in an attempt to claim enough space for both creatures. To keep guinea pigs and rabbits peacefully, maintain separate cages for both animals, and supervise their interactions when they are both loose in the house.

Remember Each Animal's Own Requirements. 
Although it won't hurt your bunny to occasionally nibble guinea pig food, and won't hurt your guinea pig to chow down on bunny food, it's important to remember and maintain the individual needs of both animals. Separate food, bedding, shelter, and roaming space are critical for enabling each animal to thrive. Remember that those broad "small animal foods" usually provide inadequate nutrition and aren't appropriate for feeding both cats and guinea pigs.

Neuter your Males.

It's a good idea to spay and neuter your pet no matter what, but this is particularly true when it comes to cohabitating rabbits and guinea pigs. Male rabbits mark their territory with intense skunky-smelling spray, as do male guinea pigs. When two in-tact males share the same home, they can quickly begin engaging in a spray-war, which will stink up your house and ruin your carpet. For the sake of your own sanity and hygeine, get your male animals snipped at your local vet's office.

How to Hold a Rabbit

As a rabbit breeder, I've sold dozens of baby bunnies to eager guardians. Most of them have been well-prepared for adventures in rabbit-raising. They come to me with a basic understanding of how to hold, pet and care for a pet rabbit. However, many would-be rabbit owners know very little about rabbits, and come to me without even understanding how to hold them. I have even seen prospective buyers try to pick up rabbits by their ears before sheepishly admitting that they don't know what to do.

There's no reason to let embarrassment get in the way of responsible pet ownership. If you're interested in owning or even handling a bunny, you should be aware of how to hold a rabbit. Handling bunnies is a fairly simple task but does take a bit of practice. Here are the basic steps involved in correctly holding a pet rabbit.

1. Be gentle. Improper handling of a rabbit can cause the animal to suffer a spinal cord injury, which is paralyzing at best and fatal at worst. Rabbits' spines are relatively delicate and it takes just one strong movement to permanently snap the pet's backbone. Understand that it is dangerous to "rough-house" with a rabbit; you can not jostle them like puppies.

2. Keep the rabbit calm. A panicked bunny can easily hurt itself or you. If you pick up a scared, rabbit, he may kick so hard that he knocks his spine out of alignment. Frightened bunnies are also prone to aggressive behaviors like biting and scratching. If your pet rabbit is resistant to being held, don't pick him up. Pet him gently until he is ready for you hold him.

3. Find a quiet area. This is particularly important if you have a new rabbit who isn't accustomed to being held. Your pet bunny may struggle out of your arms if he gets frightened while you're holding him. Handle your bunny in a room free of dogs, children, radios, televisions or other potentially distressing noise sources.

4. Cup the bunny's butt in one hand. Hold the rabbit so that most of his weight, in the hindquarters, rests in one of your hands. Use the other hand to support his other half. Unless you have the bunny supported against your chest or lap, don't let go with one hand in order to pet him. Keep both hands under the rabbit at all times.

5. Supervise children carefully. A child under the age of ten should never, ever hold a rabbit without assistance. Young children are not only too small to have enough hand-space for a rabbit, but they lack the know-how involved in unsupervised bunny care. If your child wants to hold a rabbit, sit down with her on a floor or sofa while she does so. Then demonstrate the two-handed bunny hold.

6. Look into getting a harness and leash. My pet rabbits have a harness that they wear any time that I am holding them in an area where they should not be loose. When we are outdoors or in a room that isn't bunny-proof, I keep them leashed even while holding them. This way, should they escape, I can easily catch them. If you have a skittish bunny with a tendency to run away, check out your local pet store for leash-and-harness sets. 

Do I Need to Take My Rabbit to the Vet?

As a rabbit breeder, I get a lot of bunny-related questions from prospective buers. Each and every new rabbit-parent asks me a stream of questions about the dietary, habitat, and time requirements involved in bunny care. One of the most common questions I hear is, "Do I have to take it to the vet?"

Most responsible pet guardians know that a veterinary check-up is essential when you purchase a new cat or dog. However, I don't personally believe that a first-time vet visit or annual checkup is necessary for rabbits. Here are a few factors to consider when determining whether you should take your rabbit to the vet.

Rabbits don't need vaccines.

There are no widely available vaccinations for pet rabbits, and no laws require that pet rabbits receive immunizations of any kind Most states require that pet cats and dogs receive rabies vaccines, but these treatments are unnecessary for rabbits, since they would rarely, if ever, spread the rabies. You do not need to bring your bunny in for a round of shots as you might do for a cat or dog.

Bunnies don't usually get worms.

Puppies and kittens usually have to go to the vet at least once to be de-wormed, since intestinal parasites are extremely common in carnivores. However, harmful digestive parasites do not generally affect bunnies, guinea pigs or other herbivores. You do not have to take your rabbit to the vet to test for worms or to treat them.

Spaying and neutering are complex issues for rabbits.

Spaying and neutering are generally the responsible way to go when it comes to owning a pet. Given the notoriously prolific nature of rabbits, it may seem like a no-brainer choice to make. However, the cost of neutering a rabbit ranges from about $150-200 on average since they require special anesthesia. Most rabbit owners are simply unwilling to front that expense. I recommend simply keeping only rabbits of one sex unless you can afford neutering.

The ASPCA does recommend annual vet visits.

Although I know very few rabbit owners who take their bunnies to the vet for check-ups, the ASPCAdoes recommend doing so. A vet can evaluate your bunny for symptoms of disease and injury, and can also answer your questions about pet care. However, I have never personally never heard of a veterinarian diagnosing a rabbit with a disease when it was showing no symptoms.

Always go to the vet immediately if your bunny is sick.

In the wild, rabbits are easy prey, so they have evolved to show few or no signs of illness until they are on the brink of death. If your rabbit is showing signs of sickness, he needs immediate, life-saving medical care. Symptoms like diarrhea, no bowel movements, runny nose, red urine, and lethargy require immediate veterinary evaluation.

Know what's right for you.

If you're a first-time bunny owner and have questions about the well-being of your new ball of fluff, there's no harm in going to the vet for an evaluation. If you want to have your rabbit spayed or neutered, a vet's care is obviously essential. Although it isn't necessary for all rabbits to go to the vet, it's best to contact an expert any time that you are concerned about your bunny's health.

How to Rabbit-Proof Your Home

I thought that childproofing my home was one of the most difficult tasks I'd ever undertaken. It was nothing, though, compared to the challenge of bunny-proofing a house. One single, unsupervised rabbit can quickly wreak havoc on an unprepared room, leaving it pulverized within just a few hours. Although dog and cats get a bad rap for renters and pet care experts, a dog's damage to a house pales in comparison to a single on-the-move bunny.

As a responsible pet owner, you have a responsibility to keep at least one portion of your house safe from your rabbit. No pet should be confined to a cage all day, every day. My own rabbits are allowed to run free in one room of my house, which I have carefully rabbit-proofed to maximize the safety of both my pets and my property.

Here are the minimum steps that rabbit guardians must take to adequately rabbit-proof a home or room.

1. Protect Electrical Cords

Rabbits love to chew electrical cords-- and easy-to-reach cords will be destroyed within minutes in the presence of an untrained rabbit. I learned this the hard way when my first rabbit, Nimbus, destroyed over $100 in appliances in the first week I owned him. I was lucky, though. Many rabbits die of electric shock while chewing on cords. To prevent this common, expensive, and potentially tragic problem, buy spiral cable wrap (available at Radio Shack and online retailers) and use it to thoroughly protect all cords in you rabbit-proof home.

2. Keep House Plants Out of Reach 
House plants are generally not appropriate fodder for a pet rabbit. Many are poisonous and can cause serious illness or death when your bunny accidentally ingests them. If the plant is edible, your bunny's likely to destroy it if it's within his reach. Keep all of your house plants on raised planters or hanging from ceiling hooks. If any leaves shed onto the ground, clean them up immediately to protect your pet.

3. Raise Upholstered Furniture 

A rabbit-proof room can not contain any furniture within bunny-reach if there is any chance that the rabbit can burrow into it. A rabbit will often dig a hole in a sofa, then make a nest inside. Many bunnies will do the same with mattresses. Keep all upholstered furniture in your rabbit-proof room at least six inches off the ground. You might also consider placing boards under and alongside the furniture to deter the rabbit from entering from underneath.

4. Provide Chew Toys

Bunnies are far less likely to resort to destructive chewing behavior if they are given safe, healthy, inexpensive objects to tear and bite. Give your bunny toys, wood chips, plastic toys, old phone books and toilet paper rolls. With these chew-worthy gizmos available, he'll probably ignore your furniture and baseboards. Keep chewable objects in a specific corner of the rabbit-proof room so that your pet associates the area with safety and acceptability.

5. Have a Litterbox 
Keep a litterbox in your rabbit-proof room, so that your bunny has a safe, sanitary place to relieve himself. Most rabbits will litter-train themselves fairly naturally, with little encouragement, but others will have to be constantly supervised until they get the hang of using the litterbox. Place the box in the area of the rabbit-proof room where your bunny tends to gravitate the most. Clean the box regularly so that it looks and smells more inviting (and is less unpleasant to be around.

Rabbit-proofing is no easy task, and I've found that it's nearly impossible to rabbit-proof an entire home. However, by providing just one safe, welcoming environment in which your pet can freely roam, you help to protect not only your own property, but your pet's health, as well.

Can You Use Cat Litter for Rabbits?

When I first got my rabbit, Frodo, his former owner surrendered a large container of perfumed, clumping cat litter laced with tiny blue crystals. She explained that she used this litter instead of standard rabbit bedding because it absorbed odors better and was less expensive. I discovered, after talking to several other rabbit owners, that it's not unusual to favor cat litter over ordinary bedding materials. I've even used some types of cat litter for my own bunnies on occasion. But is it really safe to use cat litter for rabbits? Here are some points to consider.

1. Natural, non-clumping litters are fine. Some cat litters are not just acceptable, but ideal, as rabbit bedding. For example, Yesterday's News, a product made from recycled newspaper, safely and sustainably aborbs odor and moisture. Non-clumping bedding and litter made made from alfalfa, wheat, oat, and citrus are equally acceptable. Use these "cat litters" whenever possible as alternatives for your bunny pal.

2. Avoid cat litters with fragrance or deodorant crystals at all cost. They are toxic to rabbits. Most bunnies will nibble on their bedding material. This is just fine when the material is safe and natural, but it's a huge problem if your bunny's bedding is a perfumed cat litter. Fragrances and deodorizers aren't just irritating to a bunny's sensitive respiratory tract; they can be acutely poisonous if eaten.

3. Clumping cat litters can cause fatal blockages. If your bunny eats a clumping cat litter, it can form a large clump in his digestive tract, preventing the passage of gas or feces. If this happens, your rabbit will either experience intense pain for several hours, followed by a difficult, traumatic, life-threatening surgery-- or, worse, he'll die. This does happen to many rabbits who are exposed to clumping litters.

4. Non-clumping clay litters are still a potential danger. Many clay litters are exceptionally dusty. If your bunny likes to dig, he may kick large amounts of fine particulate matter into the air. When this enters his respiratory tract, it can cause intense irritation, leading to coughing, bronchitis, and even pneumonia. Prolonged exposure to dusty clay litters can cause your bunny to experience life-threatening respiratory damage.

5. Pine- and cedar-based litters can damage the liver. The jury's still out on whether pine and cedar litters are harmful to rabbits. We do know that rabbits exposed to these potentially harmful tree oils often demonstrate elevated liver enzymes, and they may make bunnies more vulnerable to the effects of anesthesia. Although they're affordable and popular, shy away from cat litters and bedding material made from these trees if any reasonable alternatives are available.

Sounds Rabbits Make and What They Mean

We generally think of rabbits as mute animals, but bunnies can be surprisingly vocal. You might hear an entire array of thumps, coos, grunts, growls and squeals from your pet rabbit. Although some are far more talkative than others, most bunnies with make at least a few vocalizations from time to time. Because rabbit guardians are often unaccustomed to the sounds made by bunnies, it's easy to misunderstand what your pet is trying to communicate. Here are some of the most common sounds a rabbit might make-- and what these sounds mean.

Screaming

You will very rarely hear a rabbit scream. And, when you do, it's a sign that the animal is in extreme pain or mortal terror. Never, ever ignore the sound of a rabbit screaming or squealing; it's a sign that something is seriosuly wrong. Take your bunny to the vet immediately if you hear this sound at any point, for any reason.

Tooth Grinding

Bunnies grind their teeth softly when they feel happy and content. It's similar in effect to a cat's purr. Expect to hear this gentle rubbing sound when you pet your bunny or cuddle with him. Although it may sound slightly alarming, this bunny-sound is not indicative of a problem.

Hissing 
Like cats, bunnies tend to hiss when they feel angry or threatened. It is often the warning-sound away or separate your bunny from his companions. Your pet is entitled to space and respect when he feels threatened.

Grunting

A repeated grunting, hum-like sound is a sign of a very happy bunny. Many rabbits do this to signal that they feel calm and affectionate. Unneutered males are especially likely to make this noise when engaging in courtship with other females-- or when attempting to woo their owners. Interpret that playful grunt as a friendly and affectionate greeting.

Honking

It can be startling to hear a goose-like honk from a bunny, but it's actually a fairly common sound for rabbits to make. Like grunting, this sound may come from amorous males, but can also be a friendly greeting. Most commonly, it signals that a bunny wants your attention.

Snoring 
Believe it or not, it's uncommon for pet rabbits to snore. Since rabbits usually sleep with their eyes open, snoring is often the only indication that a bunny is peacefully sleeping. If your bunny seems to snore much more loudly or frequently than usual, take him to the vet to screen for respiratory problems.

What to do About a Sexually Frustrated Male Rabbit

My pet rabbit, Frodo, has turned into a terror in recent weeks. He gnaws on his cage bars for hours on end, struggling to break out. As soon as he is freed of his prison, he sets to work urinating on my floors and destroying my floor boards. I would be angry if I didn't understand the reason for his aggression-- his love interest, Eowyn, whose cage he has been struggling to disassemble for weeks.

Hell hath no fury like a sexually frustrated male rabbit. Currently, Frodo and his mate are taking a hiatus in between litters, and the frustration is driving the male absolutely bonkers. Aggression and destructive behaviors are extremely common among male rabbits who feel sexually frustrated, but there are-- fortunately-- ways to end their distress. Here are a few options.

1. Let them mate. If you're a breeder and your bucks have become too randy for their own good, it may not be a bad idea to let them mate. If it's an appropriate time to prepare for another litter, consider giving your pets the go-ahead to make some baby bunnies.

2. Get your rabbit a plush "friend." Male rabbits will often learn to take out sexual frustration on inanimate objects, including realistic-looking stuffed animals. Buy your pet rabbit a plush bunny toy with relatively realistic proportions. If he's needy enough, it can act as a substitute for the real thing.

3. Keep him away from females. My rabbit's frustrations are always the strongest when he's in relatively close proximity to his female companion. For this reason, I only generally allow them near each other-- caged or otherwise-- when it's an appropriate time for them to mate. If your rabbit is prone to sexual frustration, house him in a completely different room from any potential companions.

4. Give your rabbit a distraction. By providing your rabbit with more room, chew-toys, and areas to explore, you help to keep his mind off his sexual frustrations. A confined, bored rabbit is far more likely to resort to the kinds of destruction most often associated with sexual frustration.

5. Have him neutered. This is the most foolproof method for handling a male rabbit who is frequently sexually frustrated. Neutering entirely solves of the hormonal and physical problems caused by, leading to, and associated with sexual frustration in rabbits. The only down side: neutering is extremely costly for rabbits due to their sensitivity to anesthesia.

Proper care of a pet rabbit can mitigate many of the unpleasant behaviors associated with sexual frustration in males. By providing a stimulating, interactive, safe environment for your pet, you can help to minimize the hormone-associated behaviors you find most troubling.

When can you hold newborn baby bunnies?

To me, the best part of rabbit-breeding is the opportunity to hold newborn baby bunnies. I love snuggling rabbits of all ages, but there's nothing like the experience of cradling a mouse-sized kit in my own palm. Many friends, buyers and prospective breeders have asked me when a baby rabbit is old enough to hold. Unfortunately, there is solid answer that will be true for every kit, doe and guardian. Here are some points to consider if you're trying to determine when your baby bunnies will be big enough to handle.

1. Can you check on the babies without holding them? Even if you don't yet feel confident picking up your kits, you should inspect them every day for signs of illness and injury. Immediately after the baby bunnies are born, count them and look for signs of inherited defects or injuries incurred during birth. If any of the kits are dead, injured or visibly ill, remove them from the litter immediately.

2. Do you have a good relationship with the mother? If you are close with the mother rabbit, you're likely to have more luck handling the kits without disturbing her or jeopardizing the health of the babies. Mother rabbits who feel nervous around humans are more likely to panic when they see their kits being handled. However, if you're close with your doe and she has mothered multiple litters, you can likely handle the kits without causing her much distress.

3. She won't abandon the babies because of your scent. A common myth states that animals will abandon their young if the babies are handled by humans. According to folk legend, human hands change the scent of the babies, leading the mothers unable to identify their young. This is, in fact, untrue. The odor of your hands is not strong enough to mask or remove a kit's natural scent, and rabbits do not rely heavily on smell to identify one another. Some rabbits will abandon their young, often with no apparent reason, but it does not occur because of the smell of human skin.

4. Do you know how to handle kits correctly? If this is your first time holding baby bunnies, it's best to wait until they are a few days ( or possibly even a few weeks) old before you handle them any more than necessary. You should have already mastered the art of holding kits securely and gently before you begin handling them more than once or twice a day (or any more than you need to confirm their health and safety). Never let a child or someone who is unfamiliar with baby rabbits hold newborn kits.

5. Wait three weeks before you handle baby bunnies like grown-ups. After three weeks of age, most kits are strong enough and resilient enough to withstand regular petting, cuddling, and prolonged holding. Babies this age to need to be around their mothers and siblings for much of the day, but you can handle them in essentially the same way you would handle an adult rabbit. 

Breeding REW Mini-Rex Rabbits

After caring for a rex rabbit for several months, I developed a love and fascination for the breed. I learned that a local pet store was seeking breeders for red-eyed white, or REW, rabbits. It seemed like a perfect opportunity to enter the fascinating world of rabbit breeding. Like any form of breeding, rabbit breeding is both a science and an art. It involves close, direct interaction with living, breathing animals-- and it requires a degree of research, space, financial investment and emotional attachment.

I consulted an experienced breeder at length before breeding mini-rex rabbits, and I purchased three pedigreed, red-eyed white mini-rex bunnies to begin my journey. Here are some expert tips from the experienced rabbit breeder about choosing a breeding pair of REW mini-rex rabbits.

If you want to breed red-eyed white, or albino, rabbits, you need to start by choosing two to three pedigreed rabbits. Most breeders recommend that you buy two red-eyed white does and one unrelated buck. Check the rabbits' pedigrees; make sure that they have only REW mini-rex rabbits in their ancestry for the past three generations.

Although experienced breeders can cross REW mini-rex rabbits with other colors, this is not recommended for first-timers. Two REW parents will always have albino kits. If you cross parents of different colors, your kits may turn out with unpredictable and undesirable patterns.

Select parents who are young-- preferably about 9 weeks old. This is the perfect age to begin bonding with a rabbit who you will have for a long time, but the kit is at this point old enough to leave his mother and siblings without complication. Note that it will be a few more months before the breeding pair will be old enough to mate.

Understand that you are adopting a pet, not just a "breeder." Your first breeding pair is likely to stay with you for several years. Choose rabbits who are loving, affectionate, human-friendly and not prone to aggressive behavior. They should be healthy and vivacious, not sulky or unfriendly.

Choose a breeding pair that exemplifies the traits associated with the breed. Mini-rex rabbits should be small and compact, with a plush, velvet-like fur coat. A REW or albino rabbit should have no pigment on its fur; its eyes should be pink to deep red in color. A show-quality mini-rx has has a square body of equal height, length and shoulder width.

Look at a parents of your soon-to-be breeding pair. The parents should have both weighed less than 4.5 pounds as adults, and they should also exemplify the breed standard. Neither of the parents should have a history of destructive, anxious or neurotic behavior. Make sure that the mother was a "good" rabbit mom; bad parenting behavior can be inherited in rabbits.

After selecting your first breeding pair of REW mini-rex rabbits, it's time to take your new pets home. Be sure that you have the proper time, space and money necessary to accommodate the pair. When all of the ideal conditions are met, it's time to start breeding them.

Breeding Rabbits: Housing Requirements and Tips

The decision to breed rabbits is not one to be taken lightly by casual rabbit-guardians. Like other animals, rabbits require adequate space, exercise, attention, food and shelter. If you do decide that you want to breed rabbits, it is imperative that you make sure you have a good amount of space for accommodating each of your breeders and any kits you may have.

Here are some things to consider regarding housing for your breeding rabbits.

1. Separate males and females. House-rabbits are great, but you should not have any free-roaming males around your females unless the males are neutered. Rabbits will breed indescriminately, even when the does are too young to safely carry a pregnancy. If your doe is already pregnant, she can conceive a second pregnancy if a buck mates with her. This can cause the second litter to be pre-term or the first to result in stillbirth. Additionally, if you don't provide separate housing for males and females, you can't be sure of the kits' pedigrees.

2. Separate males from other males. My rabbit Nimbus, who is neutered, gets along fine with my breeding male. This is because a neutered or prepubescent rabbit will always submit to an unaltered buck. Otherwise, however, you need to separate your males from one another. After puberty, unaltered males will become extremely aggressive toward one another. These heated battles can lead to ripped testicles, broken bones and death. Don't allow it.

3. Socialize your bunnies. Although you need to separate unaltered males from females and one another, your breeding rabbits need and deserve to be socialized regularly. Provide communal housing for your females. Take each of your rabbits out every day-- remembering that they are pets, not livestock-- and spend some time with them. Allow your breeding rabbits to become familiar with your voice, smell and appearance. Your rabbits need to trust you and one another; they are social creatures and do not deserve to live in isolation.

4. Remember play time. Rabbits are naturally playful, breeding rabbits included. At my house, I have a large, predator-proof, outdoor "play yard" that I made as a home for my neutered male. I allow my females to run around in it a few times per day, then I allow males to play in it one at a time. I also allow each of my rabbits to come into the house for a few minutes every day explore and to spend time with humans.

5. Provide enough space. Your rabbits' cage or hutch should be at least four times the length of the rabbit's body. If you are housing multiple rabbits in a single cage or hutch, you need to double, triple or quadruple this number to provide a sufficient amount of space. Your breeding rabbits' housing requirements are identical to those associated with non-breeding pet rabbits.

6. Protect them from the elements. If you live in a mild climate and your rabbits are able to get out of their cages several times a day, it can be okay to keep your pet breeding rabbits in an outdoor hutch. However, make sure to provide housing that protects your rabbits from heat, cold and wetness. Your rabbits should have an area, such as a blanket or a nest-box, that provides warmth on cool nights. Provide limitless water year-round, and bring them into a temperature-controlled environment if the temperature falls below 35 degrees or exceeds 90 degrees. These tempeatures can lead to hypothermia or heat stroke even in healthy rabbits with proper housing.